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Ski and snowboard servicing – How? What? Why?
Do you hate skidding on ice and hard snow? Do you get left behind in sticky slush?
This is the one time when the excuse, ‘it’s because of my skis or board’, could actually be true!!!!!
If you want to perform better on those state of the art boards and skis that you’ve bought, then you have two options: either take them to a reputable servicing workshop and pay to get them serviced, or you could save some of your lovely hard earned wages and do it yourself. Unlike popular belief, servicing for recreational boarders and skiers is easy when you know how and doesn’t need to take too long or cost too much money.
If you’ve always wondered what the art of servicing skis and boards is all about, or wanted to know how to do it, and why you should, then keep reading and hopefully we’ll be able to help.
If your skis or board haven’t been serviced before and they’ve had a lot of use, you might need to get them professionally serviced before starting to work on them yourself, then you’ll find them much easier to service.
Why should you service your snowboards and skis?
The two most important things to help your boards and skis perform are to keep the edges sharp and the bases waxed. This allows your boards and skis to grip and turn better and also helps them slide well.
EDGES
How do I sharpen my edges?
The first step is to clamp the ski or snowboard in a vice, with the base facing away from you and the edge you are about to work on facing upwards. With a file in an appropriate holder, sharpen the edge working from one end of the ski to the other. Use short strokes and then gradually lengthen them as you do another pass down the ski, until the last pass when you finish with one long stroke from one end of the ski to the other. Now turn over the ski, so the base is still facing away from you, but you can now work on the other edge. Repeat the steps above in exactly the same way. It doesn’t matter if you are working from tip to tail, or tail to tip, the edges will still get sharp whichever way!
How hard should I press with the file?
Let the file do the work! Don’t press too hard or you’ll create burs and have more chance of slipping off the edge.
How much should I sharpen the edges and how will I know when they are sharp?
One trick is to draw along the side of the edge that you are about to work on with a permanent marker. Sharpen the edge and once all the black has disappeared they should be sharp enough. If you gently run the back of your fingers across the edge at 45 degrees, you can normally feel whether they are sharp or still rounded.
I’ve been told there’s lots of different edge angles, how do I know which one to choose?
There are many different edge angles available, however most non-racers use either 89 or 90. Any sharper angle will need a lot more skill and angulation of the ski to be able to control it.
Do I need to sharpen them completely from end to end?
Always sharpen the whole length of the edge, otherwise you’ll be left with no edge at the middle of the ski and loads at either end. If you prefer them not so sharp at the tip and tail then they can easily be blunted off.
I’ve heard you have to blunt off the tip and tail, is this true and if so how much? This is called ‘de-tuning’, blunting the tip and tail of the ski. The amount depends on the type of ski or board and the ability of the skier. The newer shaped skis don’t need as much de-tuning as the older straight skis. Carving/shaped skis perform so well, because it is easier to get the whole edge in contact with the snow. If you blunt them too much you’ll only use the centre of the ski, reducing how much it grips. A lower level skier on the other hand would much rather rotate and skid their skis to keep control without their edges catching, so they would normally have their skis blunted off more. To de-tune the edges use a gummi stone, a semi-abrasive rubber block, and run it along the edge fairly firmly at 45 degrees, the edge should feel more rounded. Most carve skis would be blunted off approximately 4”-6” or less at either end, straighter skis would be blunted approximately 6”-10” at either end, on both edges.
BASES AND WAXING
Turn the ski over in the vice so that the base is now facing upwards. Scrape the base with a plastic scraper to remove any excess wax, dirt and edge filings.
Do the bases need cleaning before waxing?
Yes, otherwise the base will get clogged up with dirt, reducing how much wax it’ll absorb. The best way to remove old wax and dirt is to hot scraping the bases. Iron a soft wax onto the base, while the wax is still liquid scrape it off. If the base looks very dirty, then they can be hot scarped again till the wax that you scrape off is clear. You can also use wax remover, but it can dry out the bases. If you use a citrus based formula it should be kinder on the base and not dry it out. Wax remover is also good for cleaning wax from scrapers and files.
TIP: To stop the scraper getting clogged with molten wax, wipe the worst of it off of the bases with a cloth before you start scraping.
What wax should I use and why?
You can either iron on the wax or use a paste wax. Hot waxing (ironing on the wax) is better for the bases, getting deeper into the base and lasting longer. This stops the skis drying out and reduces friction. This makes the bases slide better, making the skis easier to control and not so susceptible to damage. Paste waxes are easy to apply, but don’t last as long. These are ideal as a top up in between hot waxing. Both of these are available as a universal temperature wax, so they’ll work in most snow conditions.
How do I put the wax onto the ski and how much should I use?
Paste waxes normally come in a liquid or paste form, which you sponge onto the base. Leave it to dry for 1-2 minutes and buff it up to form a hard sheen, making it last longer. To iron the wax onto the ski, hold a block of wax against the iron and drip the wax along the base. There should be enough wax on the base to let the iron slide easily across it, if it sticks just drip on some more wax. The iron should be hot enough to melt the wax, but if it starts to smoke, lower the temperature.
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Leave the wax to cool to room temperature, usually about an hour, and then scrape the wax off the edges and the bases using a plastic scraper.
How often should I wax my skis?
The more often a base is waxed, the more wax it will absorb. If a base looks grey or feels rough, it’s usually dry and needs waxing, otherwise it’ll run slowly and be more susceptible to damage.
How do I repair holes in the base?
Any repairs should be done before waxing, on a clean base. Remove any protruding base material carefully by scraping with a metal scraper. Before starting any repairs it’s best to clean the holes with wax remover, so that the repair material bonds better. Light a P-Tex repair candle with a lighter and hold it horizontally letting it drip onto a metal scraper. Hold it close to the scraper, until the P-Tex is no longer smoking and the flame is blue. Holding it close to the ski, drip the candle onto the holes and let it cool. Scrape off any excess repair material with a metal scraper or coarse bastard/dreadnought file.
Do I need to do anything to my skis and board before I put them away for the summer?
Don’t put them away without servicing them, otherwise they’ll dry out and go rusty. When you service them, leave a thick layer of wax on the base and edges and don’t scrape it off till you need to use them next.
So, if you sharpen your edges and wax your bases, it will protect your skis and make them last longer and ‘hopefully’help you ski better!!
If you need any equipment for servicing please call in to one of our shops, buy online www.skibartlett.com, or call for mail order on 020 8848 0040.
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